Saturday, September 29, 2007

Michele had yesterdays go as I was too embarrassed and anyway I have to let her have a shot at me sometimes!

Wednesday after an easy start we went north to the Cathedral of Zipaquira or the Salt Cathedral, truly amazing a Cathedral cut out of solid salt 60 meters underground, 25 metres high and 80 or so metres long with a huge cross at the end. Its not just the Cathedral itself but the various stations of the cross and other chapels no the way down a sloping tunnel and around the main hall. There is also a reception/conference hall beside the Cathedral. Unfortunately the walls etc are black (the natural colour for salt before it absorbs water) so photos a problem. Brett you were right well worth the visit, Michel was particularly taken with it.

Lunch followed in restaurant in a Spanish style Casa with the traditional courtyard, beside a lake in a town (can´t remember the name) which was totally rebuilt when the lake was created (to supply water to towns and cities north of Bogota).

The country side was not dissimilar to country side world over except that the architectural style is local with Spanish and Indian influences. Many of the houses are in the throes of additions and it is apparent that many will take a long time. It is common if not prevalent, for the houses to be in this state both in the poorer parts of Bogota itself and in the country side. Brick (solid and most often super brick style) is almost totally the medium used and on a later trip we came across a whole valley of brick works with Kilns fired up varying in size from one or two small hand brick kilns to larger brick works similar to our circa 1960. Apparently suppliers buy up from all the small brick works and then retail out. I also gather that other than medium rise permits and regulations are rarely obtained or recognised.

I will right a special entry on my fascination with Bogota traffic, suffice to say that the return trip was interesting and there was almost total gridlock well outside the city.

Another taste of Colombian food for dinner, Michele is really enjoying the varieties of fruit available to the extent that a trip to a fruit and veggie market was undertaken on Friday (but that is getting ahead).

A full on day and to bed tired but excited and a 7.00 o’clock start in the morning.

Keeping going, an early start Thursday as out target was some 4 hours away and also because it presented an opportunity for us to experience a traditional breakfast on the road. More exotic tastes and textures, we have concluded that Colombian life revolves around food with up to 4 meals a day and this does not include the nibbles and tastes that continually present as you walk around. I struggle to keep up.

On route to the days highlight, just before Tunja we stopped off at a memorial of the battle of independence, marking the battle of Boyaca where the Spanish were denied at a small, in fact very small bridge, no more that 1.5 m wide and 15 m long. I might not have the story correct but a 15 year old boy may have stopped a Spanish general from fleeing. There is an impressive monument to Simon Bolivar here although I understand he was not present for this particular battle.

On through Tunja (for a brief time the Capital of Colombia to the historic town of Villa de Leyva, historic as a town where several significant prominent figures in the independence movement lived round the turn of the 18th century and also because it is w well preserved town of that vintage. As with all Spanish towns the central focus is the main square with the church and administrative buildings on two sides. At Villa de Leyva the roads in the old core are all cobbled as is the whole square which must be over an acre in size. All the houses are whitewashed and many have beautiful balconies and gardens (and a lot both). We walked up a steepish hill to a beautiful Spanish style hotel which over looked the town, a great place for a rest and a beer. Back down the hill passed the market square with Aussie bottle brush trees (I am amazed at the amount of Aussie flora, particularly eucalyptus in and around Bogota. I gather there has been a concerted effort to grow these for timber with the predominant variety what I think are Tassie Blues).

Interestingly as V de L is in the valley to the west of Bogota and considerably lower in elevation the countryside was warmer, drier and harsher and certainly not a fertile.

Lunch was of course necessary and not he snack variety, after all Dinner was hours away!

The trip home was again something else (see yet to be written Traffic Special). Of course it involved a stop for food this time at a cheese shop where we sampled French style cheese with a jam like filling, in bars about the size of a wafer ice cream. This was just before the valley of brick works mentioned earlier, the smell of charcol was everywhere.

The trip home of less than 200k took well over 5 hours (see yet to be written Traffic Special), straight to another special restaurant run by yet another friend of Camilo´s. (did we mention that Camilo is a chef himself?). More exotic tastes, textures and experiences and even a few beers (local of course) for GAJ.

A somewhat exhausting day particularly for Hernando with all the driving.

We are having a ball and are totally overwhelmed by our hosts!!

See the Cats got up! What a result!

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