Home Again
Home Again Arrived home safely today (Sunday), a long flight however one we did fairly easily sleeping for over 10 hours and arriving pretty jet lag free. LAN OK but could be better in respect to service.
Will post a review of the trip in a day or so when perspective returns. However the last day was enjoyable and restful on the wine tour, two interesting wineries, both in beautiful grounds.
It was a really good relaxing way to finish off our phenomenal tour We just trust we did not bore people too much with our self indulgences.
Geoff and Michele
Saturday, October 27, 2007
Thursday, October 25, 2007
All but Home
On our last night and just in from dinner.
Tomorrow we are going to relax with a wine tour!!
As per the last post Easter Island was different, probably reminded us of Vanuatu in life style, certainly not South American despite being part of Chile. Whilst the Maohi and the associated culture are fascinating, particularly the old traditional housing (not used for 200 years), after a day or so you have seen it all.
Business Class travel!!! Now Michele Bubble Belle has the taste I do not know what the future holds? It really is her (champagne) style and the trip home Economy will be tough!!
We have just been reminiscing on the trip and experience and have agreed that it was an experience that on the one hand has exceeded our expectations, if only we could define what they were, and on the other hand so enjoyable. Culturally it has been like nothing else we have experienced, so diverse, so interesting historically, and so sharp as to the differences between the rich and the underprivileged. Different even to what we have seen of Asia (although we have not been to India).
As to highlights, it has been one long highlight right from the friendship and hospitality we enjoyed with our friends in Colombia, to Amazonia, Quito, the magnificence and fascinations of Peru and Bolivia, through to Buenos Aries and Rio. Iguassu exceeded my long held expectations and Easter Island was both intrigueing and different. We have eaten well, (and drunk well, Pisco Sour is now a staple) and in particular enjoyed the variety of foods on offer.
We are looking forward to being home but will remember this sojourn with fondness and pleasure.
Just wait for the 2000 plus photos and the 3 hours of video (bet you can´t wait).
Bubbles drinks at 52 Barrabooka next Friday???
Hasta Leugo
On our last night and just in from dinner.
Tomorrow we are going to relax with a wine tour!!
As per the last post Easter Island was different, probably reminded us of Vanuatu in life style, certainly not South American despite being part of Chile. Whilst the Maohi and the associated culture are fascinating, particularly the old traditional housing (not used for 200 years), after a day or so you have seen it all.
Business Class travel!!! Now Michele Bubble Belle has the taste I do not know what the future holds? It really is her (champagne) style and the trip home Economy will be tough!!
We have just been reminiscing on the trip and experience and have agreed that it was an experience that on the one hand has exceeded our expectations, if only we could define what they were, and on the other hand so enjoyable. Culturally it has been like nothing else we have experienced, so diverse, so interesting historically, and so sharp as to the differences between the rich and the underprivileged. Different even to what we have seen of Asia (although we have not been to India).
As to highlights, it has been one long highlight right from the friendship and hospitality we enjoyed with our friends in Colombia, to Amazonia, Quito, the magnificence and fascinations of Peru and Bolivia, through to Buenos Aries and Rio. Iguassu exceeded my long held expectations and Easter Island was both intrigueing and different. We have eaten well, (and drunk well, Pisco Sour is now a staple) and in particular enjoyed the variety of foods on offer.
We are looking forward to being home but will remember this sojourn with fondness and pleasure.
Just wait for the 2000 plus photos and the 3 hours of video (bet you can´t wait).
Bubbles drinks at 52 Barrabooka next Friday???
Hasta Leugo
Wednesday, October 24, 2007
Another quick Post.
Trip to Easter Island uneventful exceptwe got anoffer wecould not refuse to pgrade to Business for $225 each.
Trust Michele does not get too used to the idea!!!
Currenty on lunch break on oiur allday tour,suffice to say the Maori are fascinating and almost unexplainable.
Had one ofthe best meals of our trip last night in a resurant we might not have normally entered,every thing here is unimposing from the outside,our hotel in particular. One star motel style, but comfortable.
Back toSantiagotomorrow (business again) and then home.
Hasta Leugo see you Sunday!!
Trip to Easter Island uneventful exceptwe got anoffer wecould not refuse to pgrade to Business for $225 each.
Trust Michele does not get too used to the idea!!!
Currenty on lunch break on oiur allday tour,suffice to say the Maori are fascinating and almost unexplainable.
Had one ofthe best meals of our trip last night in a resurant we might not have normally entered,every thing here is unimposing from the outside,our hotel in particular. One star motel style, but comfortable.
Back toSantiagotomorrow (business again) and then home.
Hasta Leugo see you Sunday!!
Monday, October 22, 2007
Another quick update
The weather for our last day in Rio was fantastic and we made the most of it. A morning tour to the forest on the hills behind the town, which were originally cleared for agriculture and replanted a 100 years or so ago. If it was not for the introduced plants you would never know, really beautiful and now a national park.
You could see the redeemar today!!!!
Bit of a walk and surf in the arvo (the beaches are like surfers only with many areas set aside for sports, and the surf mild like Noosa main beach), whilst waiting for the shops to open (at 3.00pm). We are sure Ruth will be pleased!!
Evening to dinner and a Samba show which turned out to be more of a Carnavilee (spelling) show with out samba. Costumes and dancing really good (did not pay much atention to the girls as glasses frosted over, will have to await photos).
Straight from the show to the airport only to find the plane delayed (yet again). Not much fun at 3.00 in the morning (after several beers) standing in queues waiting for immigration to open!!.
Now back in Santiago, easy day, yes Mari we did visit Pueblito de Los Dominicos and did sample the suggested foods and yes it was delightful, although when Michele went back to the glass shop to make purchases we found the lady had left for the day.
Had one of the best meals of the trip tonight at Miguel Torres tapas bar (Mari around the corner form the Intercontentinal).
Easter Island tomorrow.
Don´t expect to get the chance to blog from there but wiil do so if the opportunity permits.
On the run home now!!
Geoff
The weather for our last day in Rio was fantastic and we made the most of it. A morning tour to the forest on the hills behind the town, which were originally cleared for agriculture and replanted a 100 years or so ago. If it was not for the introduced plants you would never know, really beautiful and now a national park.
You could see the redeemar today!!!!
Bit of a walk and surf in the arvo (the beaches are like surfers only with many areas set aside for sports, and the surf mild like Noosa main beach), whilst waiting for the shops to open (at 3.00pm). We are sure Ruth will be pleased!!
Evening to dinner and a Samba show which turned out to be more of a Carnavilee (spelling) show with out samba. Costumes and dancing really good (did not pay much atention to the girls as glasses frosted over, will have to await photos).
Straight from the show to the airport only to find the plane delayed (yet again). Not much fun at 3.00 in the morning (after several beers) standing in queues waiting for immigration to open!!.
Now back in Santiago, easy day, yes Mari we did visit Pueblito de Los Dominicos and did sample the suggested foods and yes it was delightful, although when Michele went back to the glass shop to make purchases we found the lady had left for the day.
Had one of the best meals of the trip tonight at Miguel Torres tapas bar (Mari around the corner form the Intercontentinal).
Easter Island tomorrow.
Don´t expect to get the chance to blog from there but wiil do so if the opportunity permits.
On the run home now!!
Geoff
Saturday, October 20, 2007
A bit more detail
Our time in BA was really pleasant, even if we had to last a day with no luggage. The La Paz situation was a bit bizarre, apparently weather conditions and load factors were involved.
Anyway nothing a bit of late afternoon shopping in what turned out to be a mecca only 5 minutes from the hotel couldn't fix.
The day on the horse property next day was not only different from our other experiences but in its self a refreshing change. Rode horses that might have well have been doped to the eyeballs on loco weed as they just played follow the leader. The horses and horsemanship of the residents was something else, as was the bar-b-Que, never seen chickens that big!
The following day did a city tour, usual mix of old and new, and plenty of free time which was appreciated. Mitch and I visited an old theatre which had been turned into a book shop with a coffee shop on the old stage. One of the few times we did not bring a camera, and as we thought Aerlyn would be fascinated I returned later to take some shots.
BA as I said in the summary blog is very European and particularly French/Paris influenced, lovely parks and squares. Did the Evita bit and visited the cemetery where she resides. Photos will tell the story.
To see the Iguassu falls had been a desire of mine for several decades and they did not disappoint, simply awesome, probably the only thing in my experience to rival the Grand Canyon. Saw both sides, went up close and under in a rubber ducky (drenched and laughing) and then over the top by helicopter. Words escape me rarely but they do here.
More delays on the plane trip to Rio and arrived pretty late. Staying at Copacabana, which is pretty tough. Unfortunately yesterday, our designated day for the Christ the Redeemer and the sugar loaf were misty and rainy, but went to the top of both anyway (without a rain coat, as usual we picked the wrong day to leave them out of the day pack!).
The city tour was OK and although we are cathedral out by now the one here is modern and spectacular. Had a great lunch in a 120 year old cafe/restaurant (rivalled tats for atmosphere) and then dinner at a steak house just up the road which rivals any meal we have had since we have been here and that says something! Did not pay much attention to the dancing girls (not).
Considered on giving today's tour a miss, which would have been not the move to make. Went up into the Mountains this morning to the town containing the summer palace for the Brazilian Emperors of he 19th C (cant remember the name Pedros.....). Firstly when we came here I did not expect to visit Imperial Palaces, (my ignorance of Brazilian History). Not only an enjoyable day in the sun (still a bit rainy in the am in Rio) but fascinating and involving the obligatory lovely lunch. This time in an "adapted private family house" which only caters for group bookings. The Chef is the mother using old family recipes and the waiters her 50 something sons. Food, delicious and interesting, ambiance captivating. Bugger another gastronomic wonderment.
In the arvo a bit of shopping (not on my account) and then a walk up the beach to get the atmosphere. Its hard to describe but the Rio vibe is certainly different and all that is written about it. A low level of constant excitement prevails.
Tomorrow is our last day on the Scenic tour, and unfortunately we will have to go straight from tomorrow nights Samba show to the aeropurto for our 3.00 am flight to Santiago.
We will miss the company of our fellow travellers and be back on our own for the next week (Santiago, Easter Island, Santiago, home). In general, they have been a great bunch and in particular the four we started off with at Sacha lodge. Scenic, as in Canada have been terrific and will continue to be highly recommended by us.
For those contemplating a trip here, particularly the Willington's and Hunter's
Firstly pack light, we have found we over catered in heaver clothes. One jumper and a T shirt as a layer is more than enough. On the few occasions its colder Rain gear suffices. (Jumpers are also extremely good value here, so you might consider not bringing any).
Secondly clothes and shoes are ridiculously cheap almost every where so don't shop for new gear before you leave.
A good pair of walking shoes/boots and a second pair of joggers or shoes is the most you need to leave Aus with.
Laundry is over the top in hotels and Laundromats hard to find, also hotels do not have irons, therefore consider easy drying crush proof gear.
We have found the cash card a really convenient way to go, have used the credit card probably 5 times and the debit card once. $us are also accepted in most places.
The easy pack overnight bag we brought has been invaluable as has the similar day pack. Next time we would bring two of both. Also picked up a really nice leather overnight bag in BA at a great price.
Phil as to Lima and Santiago, can't really say as we really only spent a few hours in the former, however you get to see a lot of the rest of Peru and we found Santiago really interesting. We also found Colombia well worth the visit despite all the negative publicity back home. Phil you met Brett Headrick at the Grill night and I know he agrees.
Finally the question of organised vrs unaccompanied tours. Both would be OK depending on what you are looking for, on the proviso that you picked up good quality local guides everywhere. I believe you can not do it from the book. Our local guides have been fantastic as Scenic obviously source the best. Guides absolutely necessary in Peru and Bolivia in particular. Obviously you take a bit of pot luck with day tours, but I,m sure these can be researched. Can speak for Condor in Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia and Walpax here in Rio, can't recall as I type the firm in BA or at the falls, but both were first class. Met a couple of self tour Aussies who seem to have had mixed results.
Happy to discuss further on our return!
Keep working!
Geoff and Michele.
Our time in BA was really pleasant, even if we had to last a day with no luggage. The La Paz situation was a bit bizarre, apparently weather conditions and load factors were involved.
Anyway nothing a bit of late afternoon shopping in what turned out to be a mecca only 5 minutes from the hotel couldn't fix.
The day on the horse property next day was not only different from our other experiences but in its self a refreshing change. Rode horses that might have well have been doped to the eyeballs on loco weed as they just played follow the leader. The horses and horsemanship of the residents was something else, as was the bar-b-Que, never seen chickens that big!
The following day did a city tour, usual mix of old and new, and plenty of free time which was appreciated. Mitch and I visited an old theatre which had been turned into a book shop with a coffee shop on the old stage. One of the few times we did not bring a camera, and as we thought Aerlyn would be fascinated I returned later to take some shots.
BA as I said in the summary blog is very European and particularly French/Paris influenced, lovely parks and squares. Did the Evita bit and visited the cemetery where she resides. Photos will tell the story.
To see the Iguassu falls had been a desire of mine for several decades and they did not disappoint, simply awesome, probably the only thing in my experience to rival the Grand Canyon. Saw both sides, went up close and under in a rubber ducky (drenched and laughing) and then over the top by helicopter. Words escape me rarely but they do here.
More delays on the plane trip to Rio and arrived pretty late. Staying at Copacabana, which is pretty tough. Unfortunately yesterday, our designated day for the Christ the Redeemer and the sugar loaf were misty and rainy, but went to the top of both anyway (without a rain coat, as usual we picked the wrong day to leave them out of the day pack!).
The city tour was OK and although we are cathedral out by now the one here is modern and spectacular. Had a great lunch in a 120 year old cafe/restaurant (rivalled tats for atmosphere) and then dinner at a steak house just up the road which rivals any meal we have had since we have been here and that says something! Did not pay much attention to the dancing girls (not).
Considered on giving today's tour a miss, which would have been not the move to make. Went up into the Mountains this morning to the town containing the summer palace for the Brazilian Emperors of he 19th C (cant remember the name Pedros.....). Firstly when we came here I did not expect to visit Imperial Palaces, (my ignorance of Brazilian History). Not only an enjoyable day in the sun (still a bit rainy in the am in Rio) but fascinating and involving the obligatory lovely lunch. This time in an "adapted private family house" which only caters for group bookings. The Chef is the mother using old family recipes and the waiters her 50 something sons. Food, delicious and interesting, ambiance captivating. Bugger another gastronomic wonderment.
In the arvo a bit of shopping (not on my account) and then a walk up the beach to get the atmosphere. Its hard to describe but the Rio vibe is certainly different and all that is written about it. A low level of constant excitement prevails.
Tomorrow is our last day on the Scenic tour, and unfortunately we will have to go straight from tomorrow nights Samba show to the aeropurto for our 3.00 am flight to Santiago.
We will miss the company of our fellow travellers and be back on our own for the next week (Santiago, Easter Island, Santiago, home). In general, they have been a great bunch and in particular the four we started off with at Sacha lodge. Scenic, as in Canada have been terrific and will continue to be highly recommended by us.
For those contemplating a trip here, particularly the Willington's and Hunter's
Firstly pack light, we have found we over catered in heaver clothes. One jumper and a T shirt as a layer is more than enough. On the few occasions its colder Rain gear suffices. (Jumpers are also extremely good value here, so you might consider not bringing any).
Secondly clothes and shoes are ridiculously cheap almost every where so don't shop for new gear before you leave.
A good pair of walking shoes/boots and a second pair of joggers or shoes is the most you need to leave Aus with.
Laundry is over the top in hotels and Laundromats hard to find, also hotels do not have irons, therefore consider easy drying crush proof gear.
We have found the cash card a really convenient way to go, have used the credit card probably 5 times and the debit card once. $us are also accepted in most places.
The easy pack overnight bag we brought has been invaluable as has the similar day pack. Next time we would bring two of both. Also picked up a really nice leather overnight bag in BA at a great price.
Phil as to Lima and Santiago, can't really say as we really only spent a few hours in the former, however you get to see a lot of the rest of Peru and we found Santiago really interesting. We also found Colombia well worth the visit despite all the negative publicity back home. Phil you met Brett Headrick at the Grill night and I know he agrees.
Finally the question of organised vrs unaccompanied tours. Both would be OK depending on what you are looking for, on the proviso that you picked up good quality local guides everywhere. I believe you can not do it from the book. Our local guides have been fantastic as Scenic obviously source the best. Guides absolutely necessary in Peru and Bolivia in particular. Obviously you take a bit of pot luck with day tours, but I,m sure these can be researched. Can speak for Condor in Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia and Walpax here in Rio, can't recall as I type the firm in BA or at the falls, but both were first class. Met a couple of self tour Aussies who seem to have had mixed results.
Happy to discuss further on our return!
Keep working!
Geoff and Michele.
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Quick Update
A quick update, will try to do more when we reach Rio.
Highlights
James´s in Buenos Aires, luggage in La Paz!
The plane from La Paz to BA took us but not our luggage, what an excuse for Michele Bubble Belle to do some shopping.
BA like a European city but with a goosed economy and plenty of poverty. On the surface a very large and successful city. Had a great time there, including a day whith the Gaucho´s riding horses etc, and a night with the Tango, great show but shitty dinner. Very successful shopping!!
Today to Iguacu, absoletuly awesome, one of the wonders of the world, will be here till late tomorrow (on the Brazil side) and then to RIO!!
Phil, will answer queries there (copy to Ian Hunter).
G
A quick update, will try to do more when we reach Rio.
Highlights
James´s in Buenos Aires, luggage in La Paz!
The plane from La Paz to BA took us but not our luggage, what an excuse for Michele Bubble Belle to do some shopping.
BA like a European city but with a goosed economy and plenty of poverty. On the surface a very large and successful city. Had a great time there, including a day whith the Gaucho´s riding horses etc, and a night with the Tango, great show but shitty dinner. Very successful shopping!!
Today to Iguacu, absoletuly awesome, one of the wonders of the world, will be here till late tomorrow (on the Brazil side) and then to RIO!!
Phil, will answer queries there (copy to Ian Hunter).
G
Saturday, October 13, 2007
Puno and La Paz and the Altiplano (three days, so a bit lengthy)
Firstly the hotel was fairly grand even though the exterior was architectaully quite bland. Like almost all the hotels, there is no iron available and the laundry-cleaning rates quite high, washing in the bath and wearing crushed shirts again!
Puno is again quite high at about 3830 metres, so we have been on the “slow and easy” program. Whilst the altitude is manageable for us low-landers you do get short of breath easily particularly early in the morning (dry nasal passages) and when climbing steps or just going up hill generally. A couple of our group have had to resort to an oxygen fix, generally those a bit older and larger in frame (and carrying excess kgs).
On the first morning we did the obligatory Uros floating islands tour. Put simply very unique and enjoyable. Each man-made island is some 2 metres thick with a base of reed root mass covered by about a metre of cut reeds, floating in some 20m of water (with anchor ropes up to 300m long). A bit squishy to walk on, just like walking on soft earth or a hard mattress. Each island is about 40-50m long and a bit narrower and supported a family clan of around 40 people. Small bedroom huts for each family (some with tv, power supplied by solar panels. Visited the primary school where the kids sang to us in their native language, French English and Spanish. Whilst they live subsistence style, tourism is now at the very least, an important $ earner. Saw how they made the islands and the reed boats, the latter requiring constant replacement and upkeep and the latter have a life of less than a year even when fortified by thousands of old plastic drink bottles. We were led to believe that the islands would probably no longer exist in traditional style if not for tourism, certainly out-boards would have replaced man power on the boats and rafts.
We also took the optional arvo tour to the nearby archeological site at Sillustani, a burial site which well and truly predated the Inka`s. Like all the sites we have visited there is quite a spiritual aura around the place. On the way passed some irrigation works some of which date back to 400 BC. Again as with the terraces, much of what we have seen predates the Inka`s by up to a millennium. I guess we had not well understood this before we came here.
Visited a working farm on the way back, supporting three generations in a cluster of small adobe buildings with the most basic of facilities (no phone, power, mains water etc). Again they welcome the intrusion of the tourist busses inviting you inside and to taste their wares. Whilst in some ways it is a bit demeaning having people poking into their lives and possessions, like the islanders, the dollars earn`t by either donation or from the purchase on souvenirs is obviously gratefully received. This particular farmer was a real showman, demonstrating how they tilled the fields (all by hand), ground the grains and lived and farmed generally.
Early rise for day two to get the bus to the border and Copacabana (would you believe the original one after which the Brazilian beach was named) to catch the Catamaran to the Ilsa de Sol, the fabled birth place of the Inka`s. The boarder crossing was a real circus, lining up on the Peruvian side to clear immigration and then on the Bolivian side to clear both customs and immigration, in what can best be described as adobe sheds. Not sure our photographs were perused in the process. Copacabana was a surprise a really thriving village with a very impressive Moorish influenced church and the obligatory craft market, offerings if not from the same factories as before, the Bolivian equivalent, (at least they are not made in China like ours)! Only toured the church from the outside (although I did peep inside), we are a bit churched and marketed out.
Cat to the island, an archeological tour which contained a surprise underground museum –display. Saw all four versions of the cameloids, and recommenced the cruise to Huajata, which really was only a wharf and a very small village. The rural landscape comprises terrace after terrace on the hills and mountains now mostly un farmed and a continuum of small and holdings on the Altiplano. If not subsistence just above it. Interestingly there were some architectural differences despite the people being of the same ethnic group, the Aymara.
A 2 & half hour bus trip up and across the altiplano to La Paz and its twin city of (name escapes me). The latter is one of the boom towns growing by 10,000`s of thousands annually and lies on the plateau well above La Paz. The usual traffic mayhem. La Paz lies in a canyon where unusually the more well of live in the lower altitudes (more oxygen and cooler climate).
Today we went on the city tour visiting the main square and cathedral (Jameses opted out of the tour), the witch market and finally the Valle de Luna, an eroded landscape well worth the visit. Lunch in a garden restaurant in an upper class suburb, very nice.
Tomorrow to Argentina.
Adios
Firstly the hotel was fairly grand even though the exterior was architectaully quite bland. Like almost all the hotels, there is no iron available and the laundry-cleaning rates quite high, washing in the bath and wearing crushed shirts again!
Puno is again quite high at about 3830 metres, so we have been on the “slow and easy” program. Whilst the altitude is manageable for us low-landers you do get short of breath easily particularly early in the morning (dry nasal passages) and when climbing steps or just going up hill generally. A couple of our group have had to resort to an oxygen fix, generally those a bit older and larger in frame (and carrying excess kgs).
On the first morning we did the obligatory Uros floating islands tour. Put simply very unique and enjoyable. Each man-made island is some 2 metres thick with a base of reed root mass covered by about a metre of cut reeds, floating in some 20m of water (with anchor ropes up to 300m long). A bit squishy to walk on, just like walking on soft earth or a hard mattress. Each island is about 40-50m long and a bit narrower and supported a family clan of around 40 people. Small bedroom huts for each family (some with tv, power supplied by solar panels. Visited the primary school where the kids sang to us in their native language, French English and Spanish. Whilst they live subsistence style, tourism is now at the very least, an important $ earner. Saw how they made the islands and the reed boats, the latter requiring constant replacement and upkeep and the latter have a life of less than a year even when fortified by thousands of old plastic drink bottles. We were led to believe that the islands would probably no longer exist in traditional style if not for tourism, certainly out-boards would have replaced man power on the boats and rafts.
We also took the optional arvo tour to the nearby archeological site at Sillustani, a burial site which well and truly predated the Inka`s. Like all the sites we have visited there is quite a spiritual aura around the place. On the way passed some irrigation works some of which date back to 400 BC. Again as with the terraces, much of what we have seen predates the Inka`s by up to a millennium. I guess we had not well understood this before we came here.
Visited a working farm on the way back, supporting three generations in a cluster of small adobe buildings with the most basic of facilities (no phone, power, mains water etc). Again they welcome the intrusion of the tourist busses inviting you inside and to taste their wares. Whilst in some ways it is a bit demeaning having people poking into their lives and possessions, like the islanders, the dollars earn`t by either donation or from the purchase on souvenirs is obviously gratefully received. This particular farmer was a real showman, demonstrating how they tilled the fields (all by hand), ground the grains and lived and farmed generally.
Early rise for day two to get the bus to the border and Copacabana (would you believe the original one after which the Brazilian beach was named) to catch the Catamaran to the Ilsa de Sol, the fabled birth place of the Inka`s. The boarder crossing was a real circus, lining up on the Peruvian side to clear immigration and then on the Bolivian side to clear both customs and immigration, in what can best be described as adobe sheds. Not sure our photographs were perused in the process. Copacabana was a surprise a really thriving village with a very impressive Moorish influenced church and the obligatory craft market, offerings if not from the same factories as before, the Bolivian equivalent, (at least they are not made in China like ours)! Only toured the church from the outside (although I did peep inside), we are a bit churched and marketed out.
Cat to the island, an archeological tour which contained a surprise underground museum –display. Saw all four versions of the cameloids, and recommenced the cruise to Huajata, which really was only a wharf and a very small village. The rural landscape comprises terrace after terrace on the hills and mountains now mostly un farmed and a continuum of small and holdings on the Altiplano. If not subsistence just above it. Interestingly there were some architectural differences despite the people being of the same ethnic group, the Aymara.
A 2 & half hour bus trip up and across the altiplano to La Paz and its twin city of (name escapes me). The latter is one of the boom towns growing by 10,000`s of thousands annually and lies on the plateau well above La Paz. The usual traffic mayhem. La Paz lies in a canyon where unusually the more well of live in the lower altitudes (more oxygen and cooler climate).
Today we went on the city tour visiting the main square and cathedral (Jameses opted out of the tour), the witch market and finally the Valle de Luna, an eroded landscape well worth the visit. Lunch in a garden restaurant in an upper class suburb, very nice.
Tomorrow to Argentina.
Adios
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
The Andian Plateau, Cuzco to Puno
Firstly last nights anticipated dinner, what a blast. A small cafe/resturant almost next to the hotel, we arrived and thought we were the only ones there but it turned out that there was another group about our size(10) upstairs. They could obviously only handle one group at a time and the other group got there first. Despite the inevitable slow service and the fact we had drunk all the wine before the food was served we all had a good time.
A sensible start tiime this morning and the train left at 8.00am arriving at Puno at 6.00pm.
Again the landscape not as expected, generally arid and treeless. Doted with small tenancy farms which appeared to be barely subsistance.
The towns and cities also appeared to be poor with the predominant building material everywhere adobe. In the usual South Qamerican tradition most of the buildings were incompleted and today we saw many abandoned.
We climbed from 3,400 metres to 4,300 before coming down to 3,800m here at Puno, with neither Michele or I really feeling too much altitude effect (light headed at times).
The train was in orient express style and we were “first class”. We found the journey interesting and restful and really enjoyed ourselves. The sourpusses in the group however found it boring, you cant please everybody¨!
The terain in the valley was flat and for a good part of the day the mountains either side more rounded than we have previously experienced.
Passed through some interesting towns and villages not the least of which was the city of Juliaca. It is some 40 k from Puna and is the location of the regional airport. Either side of the train tracks for several kilometres, was market like with stalls (blankets laid out on the ground) selling every thing imaginable from food, coca leaves, second hand car parts and plumbing gear, clothes, billiard tables, and any other assorted junk. It was certainly a local market not a toruist market.
The hotel here is somewhat unique, located on a small island or ithmus into the lake and is the only 5 star one around. It was dark when we arrived and we will get a better look around in the morning.
Two days here so tonight is a washing night, to which we must now give our full attention to!
Hasta la Vista Amigos
Firstly last nights anticipated dinner, what a blast. A small cafe/resturant almost next to the hotel, we arrived and thought we were the only ones there but it turned out that there was another group about our size(10) upstairs. They could obviously only handle one group at a time and the other group got there first. Despite the inevitable slow service and the fact we had drunk all the wine before the food was served we all had a good time.
A sensible start tiime this morning and the train left at 8.00am arriving at Puno at 6.00pm.
Again the landscape not as expected, generally arid and treeless. Doted with small tenancy farms which appeared to be barely subsistance.
The towns and cities also appeared to be poor with the predominant building material everywhere adobe. In the usual South Qamerican tradition most of the buildings were incompleted and today we saw many abandoned.
We climbed from 3,400 metres to 4,300 before coming down to 3,800m here at Puno, with neither Michele or I really feeling too much altitude effect (light headed at times).
The train was in orient express style and we were “first class”. We found the journey interesting and restful and really enjoyed ourselves. The sourpusses in the group however found it boring, you cant please everybody¨!
The terain in the valley was flat and for a good part of the day the mountains either side more rounded than we have previously experienced.
Passed through some interesting towns and villages not the least of which was the city of Juliaca. It is some 40 k from Puna and is the location of the regional airport. Either side of the train tracks for several kilometres, was market like with stalls (blankets laid out on the ground) selling every thing imaginable from food, coca leaves, second hand car parts and plumbing gear, clothes, billiard tables, and any other assorted junk. It was certainly a local market not a toruist market.
The hotel here is somewhat unique, located on a small island or ithmus into the lake and is the only 5 star one around. It was dark when we arrived and we will get a better look around in the morning.
Two days here so tonight is a washing night, to which we must now give our full attention to!
Hasta la Vista Amigos
Tuesday, October 09, 2007
The Inka Trail and the Sacred Valley of the Inca’s
Another enjoyable day in this intriguing and interesting part of the world.
Firstly to correct an error on the last blog, the lovely hotel at Macchu Picchu was in fact the Inkaterra.
Today was an easier day with a respectable 8.00 start and first to a quaint restaurant not for from the hotel for lessons in how to prepare ceviche, almost the natural dish where the fish is ¨cooked¨ by marinating it in lime or lemon juice.
Thence to the somewhat famous Pisac Markets. Many “bargains” although it is pretty obvious that the “alpaca” garments are mostly lambs wool. Jewelry seems OK for price after you bargain (you offer 100, I offer 80, you suggest 90 settle for that or else 87.5, probably worth 50!). Mitch looks resplendent in the choker and the new sweater. I have yet another polo, yet another shirt clean out required on return.
The Inca offering today was Sassayhuaman quite close to Cuzco, where we had the good fortune to see a condor, one of the three sacred fauna to the Inka, along with the puma and the anaconda.
Back in Cuzco for yet another buffet lunch and then a tour of the cathedral and finally the Temple of the Sun. Free time in the late arvo before dinner tonight which we have negotiated in what seems to be a private house, shop, laundry, snack bar. Heaven knows what we will get but it was the bright idea of one of pour party and 10 of us will go.
The luxury train to Puno tomorrow, apparently an 11 hour journey.
Some reflection on the Inka´s and South America Generally
Firstly, nothing is ever as you expect it and particularly so when you experience different cultures. The travel brochures stress the traditional ways of life and historical connections whereas the reality is that most of the Countries we have visited are largely urbanized and in many ways little different to cities anywhere. The shopping malls have the same franchise brand stores and the youngies in particular, wear the same clothes and behave in the same way.
The most obvious differences is the price for many items, particularly clothes which are considerable different.
Each of the cities, whether large of small has a well preserved “old Quarter” dating back 500 years, which makes our cities awfully young by comparison. Each old quarter is laid out in the same way with a central Plaza de Armis.
All have an excess of churches often sharing walls, almost all of the old quarter churches are full of icons and idols in the Spanish catholic tradition.
This leads to the first overwhelming observation in that the Spanish destroyed the pre Columbian way of life on the pretext that it was idol worship, yet the religions were largely astral based and earth/calander based. The churches in particular built on the foundations of Inka temples are far more idol and icon based than the Inca ones ever could have been (apologies if this offends any Catholics).
The other interesting facet is how the contemporary situation is that many of the traditional beliefs and customs have been integrated into the catholic system.
The second aspect which we had not fully understood was the very limited life of the Inka empire, less than 150 years and the fact that it was in some turmoil when the Spanish arrived which made its down fall easier. Before coming here I was of the opinion that it had lasted several centuries at the very least.
The third aspect is the stone work itself and the effort which went in to construction, particularly at Ollantaytaambo. No photos can do the mastery of it justice.
Finally there is the disparity in wealth across all countries. In many cases this disparity seems to be racially based with those of fairly pure European background at the top, those of mixed race in the middle and the ethnic indigenous groups at the bottom.
Housing construction is another contrast with different materials used in different countries, bricks and tiles in Colombia, blocks, concrete and iron in Ecuador and adobe and tiles here in Peru. If you wish to add to your house you just plow up a bit of field and make some bricks. As a housing aficionado this has been of particular interest to me.
The agricultural practices here are fairly basic and it is amazing where and what they will cultivate, even the tops of the highest mountains. Just getting to these remote fields must be an exercise in itself.
Time presses on, the bar and dinner await,
Hasta Leuago Amigos yet again.
Another enjoyable day in this intriguing and interesting part of the world.
Firstly to correct an error on the last blog, the lovely hotel at Macchu Picchu was in fact the Inkaterra.
Today was an easier day with a respectable 8.00 start and first to a quaint restaurant not for from the hotel for lessons in how to prepare ceviche, almost the natural dish where the fish is ¨cooked¨ by marinating it in lime or lemon juice.
Thence to the somewhat famous Pisac Markets. Many “bargains” although it is pretty obvious that the “alpaca” garments are mostly lambs wool. Jewelry seems OK for price after you bargain (you offer 100, I offer 80, you suggest 90 settle for that or else 87.5, probably worth 50!). Mitch looks resplendent in the choker and the new sweater. I have yet another polo, yet another shirt clean out required on return.
The Inca offering today was Sassayhuaman quite close to Cuzco, where we had the good fortune to see a condor, one of the three sacred fauna to the Inka, along with the puma and the anaconda.
Back in Cuzco for yet another buffet lunch and then a tour of the cathedral and finally the Temple of the Sun. Free time in the late arvo before dinner tonight which we have negotiated in what seems to be a private house, shop, laundry, snack bar. Heaven knows what we will get but it was the bright idea of one of pour party and 10 of us will go.
The luxury train to Puno tomorrow, apparently an 11 hour journey.
Some reflection on the Inka´s and South America Generally
Firstly, nothing is ever as you expect it and particularly so when you experience different cultures. The travel brochures stress the traditional ways of life and historical connections whereas the reality is that most of the Countries we have visited are largely urbanized and in many ways little different to cities anywhere. The shopping malls have the same franchise brand stores and the youngies in particular, wear the same clothes and behave in the same way.
The most obvious differences is the price for many items, particularly clothes which are considerable different.
Each of the cities, whether large of small has a well preserved “old Quarter” dating back 500 years, which makes our cities awfully young by comparison. Each old quarter is laid out in the same way with a central Plaza de Armis.
All have an excess of churches often sharing walls, almost all of the old quarter churches are full of icons and idols in the Spanish catholic tradition.
This leads to the first overwhelming observation in that the Spanish destroyed the pre Columbian way of life on the pretext that it was idol worship, yet the religions were largely astral based and earth/calander based. The churches in particular built on the foundations of Inka temples are far more idol and icon based than the Inca ones ever could have been (apologies if this offends any Catholics).
The other interesting facet is how the contemporary situation is that many of the traditional beliefs and customs have been integrated into the catholic system.
The second aspect which we had not fully understood was the very limited life of the Inka empire, less than 150 years and the fact that it was in some turmoil when the Spanish arrived which made its down fall easier. Before coming here I was of the opinion that it had lasted several centuries at the very least.
The third aspect is the stone work itself and the effort which went in to construction, particularly at Ollantaytaambo. No photos can do the mastery of it justice.
Finally there is the disparity in wealth across all countries. In many cases this disparity seems to be racially based with those of fairly pure European background at the top, those of mixed race in the middle and the ethnic indigenous groups at the bottom.
Housing construction is another contrast with different materials used in different countries, bricks and tiles in Colombia, blocks, concrete and iron in Ecuador and adobe and tiles here in Peru. If you wish to add to your house you just plow up a bit of field and make some bricks. As a housing aficionado this has been of particular interest to me.
The agricultural practices here are fairly basic and it is amazing where and what they will cultivate, even the tops of the highest mountains. Just getting to these remote fields must be an exercise in itself.
Time presses on, the bar and dinner await,
Hasta Leuago Amigos yet again.
Monday, October 08, 2007
Machu Picchu and Beyond
Buenas Dias amigos
A quick update post as we have had few opportunities of late.
Cuzco was really great and the hotel very well located. We are now on the road, yesterday Machu Picchu and today Ollantaytambo. Machu Picchu was everything everybody has claimed, just awesome, although as to why it is where it is will remain a mystery. Definitely hard to get to and when there tiring to get around even though we are pretty altitude acclimatised.
Thankful that we are not trekking, its hard enough to get to the top of the complex let alone climbing the mountains to get there. Sally, take note the highest pass is called dead women’s pass!! I reckon I’m fairly fit but the climbing puffs me out.
The stone work is amazing and the geometry and astral aspects almost unfathomable. Have some great photos and hopefully video if the sound is OK.
The hotel, the Machu Pueblo, was eco style in a garden setting, a real 5 star effort. The only down side was that it began raining when we were at dinner and the rooms are some distance away up hill.
Today Ollantaytambo, in some ways more intriguing as the quarry was probably 10 miles away miles up amountain and on the other side of the river (as opposed to MP were the quarry is on site). Again we both found the climb to the top tiring although the trick seems to be to take it slow and easy.
Tonights hotel the Casa Andaina at Valle Sagrado equally splendid but as it ins in the plains the setting is a more formal garden. Dinner again shortly, can hardly get into the jeans.
Tomorrow more Inka and then to the Pisco market and back to Cuczo.
Hopefully there we can check emails. Bigpond should be condemned, their web site is so complex and hard to access that the connections often can not cope. They need a simple site for overseas travellers, it just crazy for them to try to be so clever.
Hasta Luego as others wish to also get frustrated at this computer.
Geoff
Buenas Dias amigos
A quick update post as we have had few opportunities of late.
Cuzco was really great and the hotel very well located. We are now on the road, yesterday Machu Picchu and today Ollantaytambo. Machu Picchu was everything everybody has claimed, just awesome, although as to why it is where it is will remain a mystery. Definitely hard to get to and when there tiring to get around even though we are pretty altitude acclimatised.
Thankful that we are not trekking, its hard enough to get to the top of the complex let alone climbing the mountains to get there. Sally, take note the highest pass is called dead women’s pass!! I reckon I’m fairly fit but the climbing puffs me out.
The stone work is amazing and the geometry and astral aspects almost unfathomable. Have some great photos and hopefully video if the sound is OK.
The hotel, the Machu Pueblo, was eco style in a garden setting, a real 5 star effort. The only down side was that it began raining when we were at dinner and the rooms are some distance away up hill.
Today Ollantaytambo, in some ways more intriguing as the quarry was probably 10 miles away miles up amountain and on the other side of the river (as opposed to MP were the quarry is on site). Again we both found the climb to the top tiring although the trick seems to be to take it slow and easy.
Tonights hotel the Casa Andaina at Valle Sagrado equally splendid but as it ins in the plains the setting is a more formal garden. Dinner again shortly, can hardly get into the jeans.
Tomorrow more Inka and then to the Pisco market and back to Cuczo.
Hopefully there we can check emails. Bigpond should be condemned, their web site is so complex and hard to access that the connections often can not cope. They need a simple site for overseas travellers, it just crazy for them to try to be so clever.
Hasta Luego as others wish to also get frustrated at this computer.
Geoff
Saturday, October 06, 2007
Sacha Lodge, Montezuma and Cuzco
Firstly our apologies for boring you so much with the blog , we decided early on to also make it a travel diary.
We will try a new format with a short general interest para or two and the
The more detailed diary.
Since Quito; Into the Amazon, Sacha lodge, Geoff vs Montezuma and Cuzco
A reasonably relaxed trip down from Quito to Francisco de Orellana, better known as Coca, only a half hour flight in a turbo prop. A unique flight in that once you take off it all a descent of about 9000 ft. into the Napo Valley. Then a 100 minute motorized canoe trip down stream to a landing for Sacha Lodge. Interesting trip, the boat was about 40m long, 1.2m wide and propelled by two big outboards, it really flew. The river is up to 1 k wide but very shallow and falls about an inch a mile all the way to the Amazon and then to the sea, many sand bars to negotiate. Considerable evidence of the oil boom along the banks.
Walked about a k to a lake and then were paddled across to the lodge. Two and a half full on days with early morning and night time walks and excursions into the jungle (tropical rain forest).
One the first night I had an encounter with Montezuma and he won decisively. I therefore sat about the first days program but made up for it on the second day.
Michele may add detail later, however in summary we saw many different birds, monkeys, lizards caiman (crocs to you), agouti.
Back to Quito the same way and then on to Lima for the night. You have to be patient, and we spent about 5 hours at airports. Mitch and I cracked it lucky with the Lima hotel and got to see a folk floor show.
Thursday morning plane to Cuzco, Lima traffic no better than a week ago. At one stage we counted 13 mini buses in a block and then a taxi. Utter chaos would be a gentle description for the Lan check-in arrangements at Lima, again patience required.
Cuzco is really lovely particularly the old town and our Hotel is in that quarter.
Michele is in her element, we met two couples at Sacha who will be traveling with us and within an hour one of the ladies had ordered a bottle of bubby and invited Michele to share it with her!
Have basically teamed up with this four. Met the rest of the group tonight and I think the famous six will stick together. Mitch and I are about in the middle of the group age wise, or at least would like to believe so. About 25% of the group are women traveling in pairs, have concluded a gent 65 to 75 would have a smorgasbord, where is Brian Hay when needed!!
The rugby a bugger, was on tele (one of 100 channels at the hotel) but we got the times wrong and missed it but good to see the Kiwis chocked again (although I missed the last 15m).
Having a ball and not missing you!!!!
Off to Machu Picchu in the morning.
PS Having a seniors moment a day it seems, but nothing as bold as the passport episode. Michele just keeps shrugging and moving on.
May add detail if I wake up early.
Geoff
Firstly our apologies for boring you so much with the blog , we decided early on to also make it a travel diary.
We will try a new format with a short general interest para or two and the
The more detailed diary.
Since Quito; Into the Amazon, Sacha lodge, Geoff vs Montezuma and Cuzco
A reasonably relaxed trip down from Quito to Francisco de Orellana, better known as Coca, only a half hour flight in a turbo prop. A unique flight in that once you take off it all a descent of about 9000 ft. into the Napo Valley. Then a 100 minute motorized canoe trip down stream to a landing for Sacha Lodge. Interesting trip, the boat was about 40m long, 1.2m wide and propelled by two big outboards, it really flew. The river is up to 1 k wide but very shallow and falls about an inch a mile all the way to the Amazon and then to the sea, many sand bars to negotiate. Considerable evidence of the oil boom along the banks.
Walked about a k to a lake and then were paddled across to the lodge. Two and a half full on days with early morning and night time walks and excursions into the jungle (tropical rain forest).
One the first night I had an encounter with Montezuma and he won decisively. I therefore sat about the first days program but made up for it on the second day.
Michele may add detail later, however in summary we saw many different birds, monkeys, lizards caiman (crocs to you), agouti.
Back to Quito the same way and then on to Lima for the night. You have to be patient, and we spent about 5 hours at airports. Mitch and I cracked it lucky with the Lima hotel and got to see a folk floor show.
Thursday morning plane to Cuzco, Lima traffic no better than a week ago. At one stage we counted 13 mini buses in a block and then a taxi. Utter chaos would be a gentle description for the Lan check-in arrangements at Lima, again patience required.
Cuzco is really lovely particularly the old town and our Hotel is in that quarter.
Michele is in her element, we met two couples at Sacha who will be traveling with us and within an hour one of the ladies had ordered a bottle of bubby and invited Michele to share it with her!
Have basically teamed up with this four. Met the rest of the group tonight and I think the famous six will stick together. Mitch and I are about in the middle of the group age wise, or at least would like to believe so. About 25% of the group are women traveling in pairs, have concluded a gent 65 to 75 would have a smorgasbord, where is Brian Hay when needed!!
The rugby a bugger, was on tele (one of 100 channels at the hotel) but we got the times wrong and missed it but good to see the Kiwis chocked again (although I missed the last 15m).
Having a ball and not missing you!!!!
Off to Machu Picchu in the morning.
PS Having a seniors moment a day it seems, but nothing as bold as the passport episode. Michele just keeps shrugging and moving on.
May add detail if I wake up early.
Geoff
Monday, October 01, 2007
Ecuador
Arrived Quito in the mid morning after getting up at 4.30 in order to get to the airport the obligatory 3 hours before hand. Not easy after the family dinner last night in a crowded noisy restaurant where the owner is a renowned local singer of one of the forms of Colombian music. A fantastic night and we finally got to met Juan Pablo (Camilo´s eldest Brother)and Juanita his wife, both delightful people. It’s a good thing we did most of the packing before we left for dinner as we did not get home till about 11.30. What a week!!!! Myriam and Heranando drove us to the airport this morning and the farewell was a bit emotional all round, its been such an intense week. On arrival here rested a bit and then walked down to a mall a bit like Indooroopilly or a smaller Chaddy, designer shops just like our centres, we could have been anywhere.
Decided to rest a while and in the late afternoon headed for the old quarter for a look around. Our first unguided tour for a while. On the way in, the cabbie was listening to the football on the radio and it seemed half of Quito was doing the same. Quito scored twice in about two minutes and the commentator announced Goooooooooooooooal. it must have gone on for 30 seconds and car horns honked and you could see people in shops celebrate. Our first experience of South American football. The cabbie was also an enthusiastic travel guide pointing out (in Spanish) all the notable features we passed, and we followed on the map.
The Basilica as they described it sits high on a hill and is quite impressive from a distance, we however headed for the Plaza de la Indepoendencia. Again typical Spanish layout and again magnificent surrounding buildings. The centre of the city was buzzing, as in fact the whole city was, as it was the day before national elections. A state of controlled excitement everywhere. Wandered the adjoining streets comparing prices in the shops and getting the ¨feel¨ of the place.
For those contemplating a trip to SA, bring only the clothes you wear, clothing is so cheap here. Note for Phil, get a refund on ebay for the boots, equivalent boots here less than $50.00, a good pair of black mens shoes less than $50.
Stumbled on a market building, a real rabbit warren of small stalls selling everything imaginable even white goods. Then decided to visit a church on the other side of the small square and found it was the somewhat famous La Compañia, which reputedly has 7 tons of gold in the decorations. Mass was taking place at the same time as tourists such as us were watching, this has been the case elsewhere as mass is celebrated regularly. Back to the Plaza de la Indepoendencia as the restaurant recommended to us was located there. The sun was setting and lights coming on illuminating the surrounding buildings, just magnificent, Phil wait for the photos.
Filled in the time until the restaurant opened by having my shoes shone, they have never looked like they do now and the exercise is a show in itself, all for $1, and visiting an Andy Warhol exhibition at the cultural centre. Dinner lovely at the Mea Cupla, notwithstanding that serving of alcohol is banned for the week end of the elections we imbibed ¨coffee¨ in china cups, seemed to come from a bottle which originated in Chile!
Sunday we had arranged for an all day private tour of Quito´s surrounds which took us to the town of Otavolo, noted for its market and displays of indigenous Hand crafts. Spent about an hour in the market and Michele was quite restrained, only bought jewellery, clothing and trinkets, I bought a panama hat. Apparently these should have always been called Ecuador hats as they are all made here.
In adjoining Peguche visited the studio of a well known artistic weaver and managed to again keep Michele restrained to an alpaca cardie and a wall hanging (another reason to bring no clothing to make room in the case)!
Everything is buzzing today as it is election day, proceedings which seem to be being conducted calmly and with dignity. Both the above towns are largely indigenous and with increasing prosperity due to a combination of land reform and the developing tourist activity, we certainly did our bit in this regard (I for instance bought a $7 hat, Michelle $xxxxxxx).
Our guide Desiree and driver Joseph were well informed and delightful young people, not necessarily the cheapest way to get around but well worth the money.
Quite-night, light dinner at the hotel (no alcohol) and repacking for the trip to Sacha Lodge in the morning (leaving the bulk of the luggage here).
Hasta Leugo Amigos from Quito
Arrived Quito in the mid morning after getting up at 4.30 in order to get to the airport the obligatory 3 hours before hand. Not easy after the family dinner last night in a crowded noisy restaurant where the owner is a renowned local singer of one of the forms of Colombian music. A fantastic night and we finally got to met Juan Pablo (Camilo´s eldest Brother)and Juanita his wife, both delightful people. It’s a good thing we did most of the packing before we left for dinner as we did not get home till about 11.30. What a week!!!! Myriam and Heranando drove us to the airport this morning and the farewell was a bit emotional all round, its been such an intense week. On arrival here rested a bit and then walked down to a mall a bit like Indooroopilly or a smaller Chaddy, designer shops just like our centres, we could have been anywhere.
Decided to rest a while and in the late afternoon headed for the old quarter for a look around. Our first unguided tour for a while. On the way in, the cabbie was listening to the football on the radio and it seemed half of Quito was doing the same. Quito scored twice in about two minutes and the commentator announced Goooooooooooooooal. it must have gone on for 30 seconds and car horns honked and you could see people in shops celebrate. Our first experience of South American football. The cabbie was also an enthusiastic travel guide pointing out (in Spanish) all the notable features we passed, and we followed on the map.
The Basilica as they described it sits high on a hill and is quite impressive from a distance, we however headed for the Plaza de la Indepoendencia. Again typical Spanish layout and again magnificent surrounding buildings. The centre of the city was buzzing, as in fact the whole city was, as it was the day before national elections. A state of controlled excitement everywhere. Wandered the adjoining streets comparing prices in the shops and getting the ¨feel¨ of the place.
For those contemplating a trip to SA, bring only the clothes you wear, clothing is so cheap here. Note for Phil, get a refund on ebay for the boots, equivalent boots here less than $50.00, a good pair of black mens shoes less than $50.
Stumbled on a market building, a real rabbit warren of small stalls selling everything imaginable even white goods. Then decided to visit a church on the other side of the small square and found it was the somewhat famous La Compañia, which reputedly has 7 tons of gold in the decorations. Mass was taking place at the same time as tourists such as us were watching, this has been the case elsewhere as mass is celebrated regularly. Back to the Plaza de la Indepoendencia as the restaurant recommended to us was located there. The sun was setting and lights coming on illuminating the surrounding buildings, just magnificent, Phil wait for the photos.
Filled in the time until the restaurant opened by having my shoes shone, they have never looked like they do now and the exercise is a show in itself, all for $1, and visiting an Andy Warhol exhibition at the cultural centre. Dinner lovely at the Mea Cupla, notwithstanding that serving of alcohol is banned for the week end of the elections we imbibed ¨coffee¨ in china cups, seemed to come from a bottle which originated in Chile!
Sunday we had arranged for an all day private tour of Quito´s surrounds which took us to the town of Otavolo, noted for its market and displays of indigenous Hand crafts. Spent about an hour in the market and Michele was quite restrained, only bought jewellery, clothing and trinkets, I bought a panama hat. Apparently these should have always been called Ecuador hats as they are all made here.
In adjoining Peguche visited the studio of a well known artistic weaver and managed to again keep Michele restrained to an alpaca cardie and a wall hanging (another reason to bring no clothing to make room in the case)!
Everything is buzzing today as it is election day, proceedings which seem to be being conducted calmly and with dignity. Both the above towns are largely indigenous and with increasing prosperity due to a combination of land reform and the developing tourist activity, we certainly did our bit in this regard (I for instance bought a $7 hat, Michelle $xxxxxxx).
Our guide Desiree and driver Joseph were well informed and delightful young people, not necessarily the cheapest way to get around but well worth the money.
Quite-night, light dinner at the hotel (no alcohol) and repacking for the trip to Sacha Lodge in the morning (leaving the bulk of the luggage here).
Hasta Leugo Amigos from Quito
Sunday, September 30, 2007
TRAFFIC IN BOBOTA SPECIAL
Horns, tiny taxis, buses of all shapes and sizes, chaos, gridlock, mayhem, where to start. I have been fascinated with the traffic in Bogota.
A city of 8 million, double that of 20 years ago, no effective public transport system, I guess we should have expected what we experienced. However we could never have visualized it until we saw it.
There are no trains or trams, in Bogota and no bus ways as we know them, other than a couple of revolutionary new lines. The bulk of transport needs are met by small capacity buses 14 to 24 seats and taxis.
The minds eye image I will carry with me will be three lane roads with no markings and up to 5 vehicles abreast continually jostling for space and someone else’s territory.
Firstly the Taxis, thousands of small yellow cars everywhere either with passengers or cruising for the same. Predominantly Hyundai Getz or similar with a minority a little larger, seeking any available space equal to their width irrespective of the general lane formation, or lack of. Constantly honking to clear their way or to admonish another driver attempting to take theirs. Two speeds, stopped, the most prevalent, or flat out.
Apparently the government sponsors underprivileged people into the cabs to give them a means of income. Hyundai must be laughing all the way to the bank. The other night I had the fortune! to sit in the front seat of a Getz sized cab with 4 other passengers in the back seat including Michele, I jest not, as it weaved its way back and across three unmarked lanes through Bogota traffic at up to, an occasionally over 80k. Forget white water rafting or bungee jumping or jumping out of a plane with or without a parachute , this is the adrenalin thrill of a lifetime. I have always had a life expectation of 90, I have had to revise this back to 87. In less than 15 minutes I lost at least 3 years. The one really good aspect is the fares, probably less than single bus fares in Brisbane. I gather this is another Government ploy to keep private cars off the street.
Now the buses, possibly my favorite obsession. As noted above except on a couple of newly created routes 99.99% of Bogota is served by buses one up from a mini bus. The best way to describe them is a cut in half Brisbane bus, seating from 14 to 24-30 but carrying twice that many in peak hour. They are this size as nothing larger would be maneuverable enough to survive in the traffic. Many shapes, sizes, and styles, all multi coloured with a 700 x 700 sign in the front window telling you the major roads they service, their ultimate destination and their price. One size fits all the fare is the same no matter how far you travel, the only difference is the quality of the bus and the time of day, either 1100, 1200, or 1250 pesos say 60 cents with an extra 50 pesos after 7.00 pm. No formal bus stops, you just look for the right sign in the window and hail the driver who will then, with out indicating, head in the general direction of the kerb, from three lanes out, cutting off any body else. As there is an almost continuous train of buses, at any point in time several buses will be either going for or leaving the kerb
dodging other buses, taxis and private cars all with horns blazing. It’s a constant kaleidoscope of movement and noise. Absolute and continuous chaos and mayhem results with passengers alighting and getting off with the bus hardly stopping and never parallel to the kerb.
All this with apparently no policing whatsoever. Speed limits, traffic lights, any semblance of road rules totally ignored.
We were told the Bogota definition of a nano second, the time taken between the light turning green and the man in the car behind honking his horn. Horns are honked even in the most ridiculous circumstances, such as gridlock which in Peak hour is most of the time. A 10k trip can take up to an hour and a half in peak hour.
And all this with private car owners only allowed to use the roads in peak hour 2 days a week, although hell knows how this is policed. Total tidal flow is also employed from 4 to 7 in the evening on some made roads which make going in the direction of the city also all but impossible.
On two occasions we were forced to abandon cabs stymied by gridlock and walk to our destinations. Bogotarians seem to accept all this with a fateful resignation and I’m told the road toll is relatively low, possibly explainable by the low average speed grid lock allows! We saw only two relatively minor accidents.
Now for the open road, possibly an even more frightening experience. Our journeys were generally on the main road north, which to be fair will be duplicated over the next few years, but is currently mostly single lane each way.
There seem to be three challenges to drivers, attempt to do three times the speed limit, see how many vehicles you can pass on double lines, trucks get double points, and see how many other cars you can run off the road, with or without assistance from the horn. Every kilometer is filled with apprehension and excitement particularly if you are used to right hand drive and sit in the front passenger seat. The front floor in Hernando’s car must be worn thin by my attempts to brake. Much less stressful in the rear seat.
The narrowish nature, aligned with the average state of the roads, constant curves and hills, and the trucks and buses closer to the city, make any journey a trial and lengthy.
As in an earlier post a less than 200 k journeys will take 4 to 5 hours.
The saving grace for us was that we were chauffered by our host Hernando who must be Bogota’s number one driver. His weaving, hole-dodging, truck avoiding, and general skills are amazing.
If I ever want to be super rich I want one of three franchises in Bogota, either the Hyundai taxi business and I jest not I saw a dealer for Hunyadi taxis, the franchise for the curved black tarp covers that cover all trucks no matter what size, very few pantechs here, or be the man who supplies replacement parts for, and repairs, car horns.
The only other comment I can offer is that from our few hours there, Lima is worse in all respects particularly the state of the roads which are at best atrocious.
PS. Some of the apparent grammatical errors above are due to the key board which wont allow me to use most of upper case options in the number row, question marks, brackets etc, one of the hazards of travel and foreign language key boards!
Horns, tiny taxis, buses of all shapes and sizes, chaos, gridlock, mayhem, where to start. I have been fascinated with the traffic in Bogota.
A city of 8 million, double that of 20 years ago, no effective public transport system, I guess we should have expected what we experienced. However we could never have visualized it until we saw it.
There are no trains or trams, in Bogota and no bus ways as we know them, other than a couple of revolutionary new lines. The bulk of transport needs are met by small capacity buses 14 to 24 seats and taxis.
The minds eye image I will carry with me will be three lane roads with no markings and up to 5 vehicles abreast continually jostling for space and someone else’s territory.
Firstly the Taxis, thousands of small yellow cars everywhere either with passengers or cruising for the same. Predominantly Hyundai Getz or similar with a minority a little larger, seeking any available space equal to their width irrespective of the general lane formation, or lack of. Constantly honking to clear their way or to admonish another driver attempting to take theirs. Two speeds, stopped, the most prevalent, or flat out.
Apparently the government sponsors underprivileged people into the cabs to give them a means of income. Hyundai must be laughing all the way to the bank. The other night I had the fortune! to sit in the front seat of a Getz sized cab with 4 other passengers in the back seat including Michele, I jest not, as it weaved its way back and across three unmarked lanes through Bogota traffic at up to, an occasionally over 80k. Forget white water rafting or bungee jumping or jumping out of a plane with or without a parachute , this is the adrenalin thrill of a lifetime. I have always had a life expectation of 90, I have had to revise this back to 87. In less than 15 minutes I lost at least 3 years. The one really good aspect is the fares, probably less than single bus fares in Brisbane. I gather this is another Government ploy to keep private cars off the street.
Now the buses, possibly my favorite obsession. As noted above except on a couple of newly created routes 99.99% of Bogota is served by buses one up from a mini bus. The best way to describe them is a cut in half Brisbane bus, seating from 14 to 24-30 but carrying twice that many in peak hour. They are this size as nothing larger would be maneuverable enough to survive in the traffic. Many shapes, sizes, and styles, all multi coloured with a 700 x 700 sign in the front window telling you the major roads they service, their ultimate destination and their price. One size fits all the fare is the same no matter how far you travel, the only difference is the quality of the bus and the time of day, either 1100, 1200, or 1250 pesos say 60 cents with an extra 50 pesos after 7.00 pm. No formal bus stops, you just look for the right sign in the window and hail the driver who will then, with out indicating, head in the general direction of the kerb, from three lanes out, cutting off any body else. As there is an almost continuous train of buses, at any point in time several buses will be either going for or leaving the kerb
dodging other buses, taxis and private cars all with horns blazing. It’s a constant kaleidoscope of movement and noise. Absolute and continuous chaos and mayhem results with passengers alighting and getting off with the bus hardly stopping and never parallel to the kerb.
All this with apparently no policing whatsoever. Speed limits, traffic lights, any semblance of road rules totally ignored.
We were told the Bogota definition of a nano second, the time taken between the light turning green and the man in the car behind honking his horn. Horns are honked even in the most ridiculous circumstances, such as gridlock which in Peak hour is most of the time. A 10k trip can take up to an hour and a half in peak hour.
And all this with private car owners only allowed to use the roads in peak hour 2 days a week, although hell knows how this is policed. Total tidal flow is also employed from 4 to 7 in the evening on some made roads which make going in the direction of the city also all but impossible.
On two occasions we were forced to abandon cabs stymied by gridlock and walk to our destinations. Bogotarians seem to accept all this with a fateful resignation and I’m told the road toll is relatively low, possibly explainable by the low average speed grid lock allows! We saw only two relatively minor accidents.
Now for the open road, possibly an even more frightening experience. Our journeys were generally on the main road north, which to be fair will be duplicated over the next few years, but is currently mostly single lane each way.
There seem to be three challenges to drivers, attempt to do three times the speed limit, see how many vehicles you can pass on double lines, trucks get double points, and see how many other cars you can run off the road, with or without assistance from the horn. Every kilometer is filled with apprehension and excitement particularly if you are used to right hand drive and sit in the front passenger seat. The front floor in Hernando’s car must be worn thin by my attempts to brake. Much less stressful in the rear seat.
The narrowish nature, aligned with the average state of the roads, constant curves and hills, and the trucks and buses closer to the city, make any journey a trial and lengthy.
As in an earlier post a less than 200 k journeys will take 4 to 5 hours.
The saving grace for us was that we were chauffered by our host Hernando who must be Bogota’s number one driver. His weaving, hole-dodging, truck avoiding, and general skills are amazing.
If I ever want to be super rich I want one of three franchises in Bogota, either the Hyundai taxi business and I jest not I saw a dealer for Hunyadi taxis, the franchise for the curved black tarp covers that cover all trucks no matter what size, very few pantechs here, or be the man who supplies replacement parts for, and repairs, car horns.
The only other comment I can offer is that from our few hours there, Lima is worse in all respects particularly the state of the roads which are at best atrocious.
PS. Some of the apparent grammatical errors above are due to the key board which wont allow me to use most of upper case options in the number row, question marks, brackets etc, one of the hazards of travel and foreign language key boards!
OUR LAST DAY IN BOGOTA
We started our day with a delightful breakfast at Myria’s sister Esperanzaand her husband Enriquo’s (I think that is how you spell his name ) beautiful apartment. We had a traditional breakfast with Tamal, which is corn meal cooked with other things like garlic, a small amount of meat and other things I cannot remember, all wrapped in banana leaves and cooked for some time, the whole dish takes around 5 hours to make, but the resultant taste is delightful. We also had little flat discs which were eggs coated in batter and about the size of a 50 cent piece. Homemade muffins and fruit juice and chocolate (hot) not cocoa but real drinking chocolate which comes in bars which are then heated and melted( beautiful), they usually melt special cheese in it as well. The fruit in Colombia is delightful and there is a wide variety all exotic fruit that we do not get, and when they are served as juice, they are beautiful. Myriam’s sister is just as hospitable as her sister, it was very nice to have another meal in the home of a local, it was very special for us to be invited to eat with them.
We then went to a fruit market., I have never seen so many different types and varieties of fruit in one place at once, we tasted some of them and one of the sellers gave us a fruit tea drink. Our hosts did some shopping which we dropped home to their place and then we hit the shops. Bought a couple of things, then back to Myriam & Hernandos for lunch. This was a special soup with corn, chicken and other delightful things which was served with avocado, which was served sliced into the soup, then we had a dessert which was a cheese served with caramel sauce.
We had a rest after that and did a bit of blogging and getting ready for that nights gastronomic delights at yet another restaurant well known in Bogota. It was the restaurant of a musicians brother, and he was a muso as well. The food was once again brilliant and then they played some latin music and people danced and sang along with the music, the atmosphere was really exciting. It was a great day for our last day in Colombia. We got home latish, finished our packing as we had an early start next morning, as we set off for Quito our next stop before heading for Le Cocoa where we head down the Napo river and our canoe trip.
We went to so many places that we had trouble remembering what they were all called, in hind sight we should have taken down the names of all the places so we could have put them in this blog which is a sort of diary.
I am having a bit of trouble typing as my ring finger and little finger on my right hand are still swollen and black and typing with them is a bit of a trial. I hope they are better by the time I get back and that I don’t have any permanent damage. Oh well.
Generally we are having a great time, even though we were told that lots of places in Sth America are dangerous, we haven’t at any time felt threatened, but we do take care, and of course we do stand out a bit. One of the locals told us not only are we white, but we are tall. It is amazing that so many people speak ‘Inglis’. This country is different to any place we have seen before, it is really beautiful, picturesque and unique.
Well will sign off, anyone who reads this is welcome to make comments, we look forward to reading every day to see of anyone has made comments. For the Colombians who may read this, I hope I have got all the things I have said correct, apologies if I offend.
We started our day with a delightful breakfast at Myria’s sister Esperanzaand her husband Enriquo’s (I think that is how you spell his name ) beautiful apartment. We had a traditional breakfast with Tamal, which is corn meal cooked with other things like garlic, a small amount of meat and other things I cannot remember, all wrapped in banana leaves and cooked for some time, the whole dish takes around 5 hours to make, but the resultant taste is delightful. We also had little flat discs which were eggs coated in batter and about the size of a 50 cent piece. Homemade muffins and fruit juice and chocolate (hot) not cocoa but real drinking chocolate which comes in bars which are then heated and melted( beautiful), they usually melt special cheese in it as well. The fruit in Colombia is delightful and there is a wide variety all exotic fruit that we do not get, and when they are served as juice, they are beautiful. Myriam’s sister is just as hospitable as her sister, it was very nice to have another meal in the home of a local, it was very special for us to be invited to eat with them.
We then went to a fruit market., I have never seen so many different types and varieties of fruit in one place at once, we tasted some of them and one of the sellers gave us a fruit tea drink. Our hosts did some shopping which we dropped home to their place and then we hit the shops. Bought a couple of things, then back to Myriam & Hernandos for lunch. This was a special soup with corn, chicken and other delightful things which was served with avocado, which was served sliced into the soup, then we had a dessert which was a cheese served with caramel sauce.
We had a rest after that and did a bit of blogging and getting ready for that nights gastronomic delights at yet another restaurant well known in Bogota. It was the restaurant of a musicians brother, and he was a muso as well. The food was once again brilliant and then they played some latin music and people danced and sang along with the music, the atmosphere was really exciting. It was a great day for our last day in Colombia. We got home latish, finished our packing as we had an early start next morning, as we set off for Quito our next stop before heading for Le Cocoa where we head down the Napo river and our canoe trip.
We went to so many places that we had trouble remembering what they were all called, in hind sight we should have taken down the names of all the places so we could have put them in this blog which is a sort of diary.
I am having a bit of trouble typing as my ring finger and little finger on my right hand are still swollen and black and typing with them is a bit of a trial. I hope they are better by the time I get back and that I don’t have any permanent damage. Oh well.
Generally we are having a great time, even though we were told that lots of places in Sth America are dangerous, we haven’t at any time felt threatened, but we do take care, and of course we do stand out a bit. One of the locals told us not only are we white, but we are tall. It is amazing that so many people speak ‘Inglis’. This country is different to any place we have seen before, it is really beautiful, picturesque and unique.
Well will sign off, anyone who reads this is welcome to make comments, we look forward to reading every day to see of anyone has made comments. For the Colombians who may read this, I hope I have got all the things I have said correct, apologies if I offend.
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Michele had yesterdays go as I was too embarrassed and anyway I have to let her have a shot at me sometimes!
Wednesday after an easy start we went north to the Cathedral of Zipaquira or the Salt Cathedral, truly amazing a Cathedral cut out of solid salt 60 meters underground, 25 metres high and 80 or so metres long with a huge cross at the end. Its not just the Cathedral itself but the various stations of the cross and other chapels no the way down a sloping tunnel and around the main hall. There is also a reception/conference hall beside the Cathedral. Unfortunately the walls etc are black (the natural colour for salt before it absorbs water) so photos a problem. Brett you were right well worth the visit, Michel was particularly taken with it.
Lunch followed in restaurant in a Spanish style Casa with the traditional courtyard, beside a lake in a town (can´t remember the name) which was totally rebuilt when the lake was created (to supply water to towns and cities north of Bogota).
The country side was not dissimilar to country side world over except that the architectural style is local with Spanish and Indian influences. Many of the houses are in the throes of additions and it is apparent that many will take a long time. It is common if not prevalent, for the houses to be in this state both in the poorer parts of Bogota itself and in the country side. Brick (solid and most often super brick style) is almost totally the medium used and on a later trip we came across a whole valley of brick works with Kilns fired up varying in size from one or two small hand brick kilns to larger brick works similar to our circa 1960. Apparently suppliers buy up from all the small brick works and then retail out. I also gather that other than medium rise permits and regulations are rarely obtained or recognised.
I will right a special entry on my fascination with Bogota traffic, suffice to say that the return trip was interesting and there was almost total gridlock well outside the city.
Another taste of Colombian food for dinner, Michele is really enjoying the varieties of fruit available to the extent that a trip to a fruit and veggie market was undertaken on Friday (but that is getting ahead).
A full on day and to bed tired but excited and a 7.00 o’clock start in the morning.
Keeping going, an early start Thursday as out target was some 4 hours away and also because it presented an opportunity for us to experience a traditional breakfast on the road. More exotic tastes and textures, we have concluded that Colombian life revolves around food with up to 4 meals a day and this does not include the nibbles and tastes that continually present as you walk around. I struggle to keep up.
On route to the days highlight, just before Tunja we stopped off at a memorial of the battle of independence, marking the battle of Boyaca where the Spanish were denied at a small, in fact very small bridge, no more that 1.5 m wide and 15 m long. I might not have the story correct but a 15 year old boy may have stopped a Spanish general from fleeing. There is an impressive monument to Simon Bolivar here although I understand he was not present for this particular battle.
On through Tunja (for a brief time the Capital of Colombia to the historic town of Villa de Leyva, historic as a town where several significant prominent figures in the independence movement lived round the turn of the 18th century and also because it is w well preserved town of that vintage. As with all Spanish towns the central focus is the main square with the church and administrative buildings on two sides. At Villa de Leyva the roads in the old core are all cobbled as is the whole square which must be over an acre in size. All the houses are whitewashed and many have beautiful balconies and gardens (and a lot both). We walked up a steepish hill to a beautiful Spanish style hotel which over looked the town, a great place for a rest and a beer. Back down the hill passed the market square with Aussie bottle brush trees (I am amazed at the amount of Aussie flora, particularly eucalyptus in and around Bogota. I gather there has been a concerted effort to grow these for timber with the predominant variety what I think are Tassie Blues).
Interestingly as V de L is in the valley to the west of Bogota and considerably lower in elevation the countryside was warmer, drier and harsher and certainly not a fertile.
Lunch was of course necessary and not he snack variety, after all Dinner was hours away!
The trip home was again something else (see yet to be written Traffic Special). Of course it involved a stop for food this time at a cheese shop where we sampled French style cheese with a jam like filling, in bars about the size of a wafer ice cream. This was just before the valley of brick works mentioned earlier, the smell of charcol was everywhere.
The trip home of less than 200k took well over 5 hours (see yet to be written Traffic Special), straight to another special restaurant run by yet another friend of Camilo´s. (did we mention that Camilo is a chef himself?). More exotic tastes, textures and experiences and even a few beers (local of course) for GAJ.
A somewhat exhausting day particularly for Hernando with all the driving.
We are having a ball and are totally overwhelmed by our hosts!!
See the Cats got up! What a result!
Wednesday after an easy start we went north to the Cathedral of Zipaquira or the Salt Cathedral, truly amazing a Cathedral cut out of solid salt 60 meters underground, 25 metres high and 80 or so metres long with a huge cross at the end. Its not just the Cathedral itself but the various stations of the cross and other chapels no the way down a sloping tunnel and around the main hall. There is also a reception/conference hall beside the Cathedral. Unfortunately the walls etc are black (the natural colour for salt before it absorbs water) so photos a problem. Brett you were right well worth the visit, Michel was particularly taken with it.
Lunch followed in restaurant in a Spanish style Casa with the traditional courtyard, beside a lake in a town (can´t remember the name) which was totally rebuilt when the lake was created (to supply water to towns and cities north of Bogota).
The country side was not dissimilar to country side world over except that the architectural style is local with Spanish and Indian influences. Many of the houses are in the throes of additions and it is apparent that many will take a long time. It is common if not prevalent, for the houses to be in this state both in the poorer parts of Bogota itself and in the country side. Brick (solid and most often super brick style) is almost totally the medium used and on a later trip we came across a whole valley of brick works with Kilns fired up varying in size from one or two small hand brick kilns to larger brick works similar to our circa 1960. Apparently suppliers buy up from all the small brick works and then retail out. I also gather that other than medium rise permits and regulations are rarely obtained or recognised.
I will right a special entry on my fascination with Bogota traffic, suffice to say that the return trip was interesting and there was almost total gridlock well outside the city.
Another taste of Colombian food for dinner, Michele is really enjoying the varieties of fruit available to the extent that a trip to a fruit and veggie market was undertaken on Friday (but that is getting ahead).
A full on day and to bed tired but excited and a 7.00 o’clock start in the morning.
Keeping going, an early start Thursday as out target was some 4 hours away and also because it presented an opportunity for us to experience a traditional breakfast on the road. More exotic tastes and textures, we have concluded that Colombian life revolves around food with up to 4 meals a day and this does not include the nibbles and tastes that continually present as you walk around. I struggle to keep up.
On route to the days highlight, just before Tunja we stopped off at a memorial of the battle of independence, marking the battle of Boyaca where the Spanish were denied at a small, in fact very small bridge, no more that 1.5 m wide and 15 m long. I might not have the story correct but a 15 year old boy may have stopped a Spanish general from fleeing. There is an impressive monument to Simon Bolivar here although I understand he was not present for this particular battle.
On through Tunja (for a brief time the Capital of Colombia to the historic town of Villa de Leyva, historic as a town where several significant prominent figures in the independence movement lived round the turn of the 18th century and also because it is w well preserved town of that vintage. As with all Spanish towns the central focus is the main square with the church and administrative buildings on two sides. At Villa de Leyva the roads in the old core are all cobbled as is the whole square which must be over an acre in size. All the houses are whitewashed and many have beautiful balconies and gardens (and a lot both). We walked up a steepish hill to a beautiful Spanish style hotel which over looked the town, a great place for a rest and a beer. Back down the hill passed the market square with Aussie bottle brush trees (I am amazed at the amount of Aussie flora, particularly eucalyptus in and around Bogota. I gather there has been a concerted effort to grow these for timber with the predominant variety what I think are Tassie Blues).
Interestingly as V de L is in the valley to the west of Bogota and considerably lower in elevation the countryside was warmer, drier and harsher and certainly not a fertile.
Lunch was of course necessary and not he snack variety, after all Dinner was hours away!
The trip home was again something else (see yet to be written Traffic Special). Of course it involved a stop for food this time at a cheese shop where we sampled French style cheese with a jam like filling, in bars about the size of a wafer ice cream. This was just before the valley of brick works mentioned earlier, the smell of charcol was everywhere.
The trip home of less than 200k took well over 5 hours (see yet to be written Traffic Special), straight to another special restaurant run by yet another friend of Camilo´s. (did we mention that Camilo is a chef himself?). More exotic tastes, textures and experiences and even a few beers (local of course) for GAJ.
A somewhat exhausting day particularly for Hernando with all the driving.
We are having a ball and are totally overwhelmed by our hosts!!
See the Cats got up! What a result!
Friday, September 28, 2007
We haven`t had a chance to post any blogs for a few days as we have been on the go since we got to Bogota. But the story of how we got here.
We got up at 3am local time, which was 2am Colombia time, as we were being collected by a driver to take u s to the airport at 4am, so we get down stairs just in time for the driver to p ick us up. Off we went, but about half way there Geoff looked in his pockets to check he had everything to discover that his passport was not there, he said he thought it was probably in his bag in the back. We got to the Airport and I stood by as Geoff disgorged his suitcase all over the floor at the airport serching for the lost passport, to no avail. There was a lot of anxiety in the air, not only from me but for him. We rang the hotel as he thought he may have left it on the sofa. The hotel people went to look and we rang back 5 minutes later. Fortunately it was where he thought he left it. The hotel assured us that it would be safe in a taxi, so we waited.... about 20 minutes later this very worried taxi driver ran up to Geoff, he had his photo inside didn`t he. There was much relief as it was now back in his possession. I am now in charge of passports.
We flew to Lima and were picked up by a very pleasant driver, who took us to Miraflores, the so called stomping ground for Peru`s wealthy families, where we met another lovely Senora who was very knowledgeable in the history of this lovely country. We took about 3.5 hours to trip all over the place and then returned to the airport for the onward flight to Bogota. The traffic was horrific, you take your life in your hands, while the drivers do battle with each other. Lima had these funnly little three wheel cars, which were taxis, they looked so dangerous, fortunately they are only allowed on side roads, so at least that relieves the other traffic from tipping one over if they ran into them. The also had small minivan buses which were all beaten up zigzaging through the traffic, causing havoc. At any time there would be several car horns going, as each driver tries to force his way in front of whoever is next to them. With our hearts in our mouth we arrived safely at the airport. Avianca airlines hand wrote all the boarding passes and a million other things to get you organized, it took for ever to get our boarding passes. So far we havn`t had any trouble with customs, but I won`t talk too soon.
We arrived at Bogota, about an hour later than we should have, so it was a long day. Camilo Zarate collected us from the airport and we arrived home here to a lovely supper and we havn`t stopped eating since. Our friends Hernando, Myriam, Camilo and Santiago have been very thoughtful and welcoming hosts. Looking through our Sth American book, Geoff`s bible on all things Sth American, we discovered that they have taken us to all the highlights of Bogota.
We got up at 3am local time, which was 2am Colombia time, as we were being collected by a driver to take u s to the airport at 4am, so we get down stairs just in time for the driver to p ick us up. Off we went, but about half way there Geoff looked in his pockets to check he had everything to discover that his passport was not there, he said he thought it was probably in his bag in the back. We got to the Airport and I stood by as Geoff disgorged his suitcase all over the floor at the airport serching for the lost passport, to no avail. There was a lot of anxiety in the air, not only from me but for him. We rang the hotel as he thought he may have left it on the sofa. The hotel people went to look and we rang back 5 minutes later. Fortunately it was where he thought he left it. The hotel assured us that it would be safe in a taxi, so we waited.... about 20 minutes later this very worried taxi driver ran up to Geoff, he had his photo inside didn`t he. There was much relief as it was now back in his possession. I am now in charge of passports.
We flew to Lima and were picked up by a very pleasant driver, who took us to Miraflores, the so called stomping ground for Peru`s wealthy families, where we met another lovely Senora who was very knowledgeable in the history of this lovely country. We took about 3.5 hours to trip all over the place and then returned to the airport for the onward flight to Bogota. The traffic was horrific, you take your life in your hands, while the drivers do battle with each other. Lima had these funnly little three wheel cars, which were taxis, they looked so dangerous, fortunately they are only allowed on side roads, so at least that relieves the other traffic from tipping one over if they ran into them. The also had small minivan buses which were all beaten up zigzaging through the traffic, causing havoc. At any time there would be several car horns going, as each driver tries to force his way in front of whoever is next to them. With our hearts in our mouth we arrived safely at the airport. Avianca airlines hand wrote all the boarding passes and a million other things to get you organized, it took for ever to get our boarding passes. So far we havn`t had any trouble with customs, but I won`t talk too soon.
We arrived at Bogota, about an hour later than we should have, so it was a long day. Camilo Zarate collected us from the airport and we arrived home here to a lovely supper and we havn`t stopped eating since. Our friends Hernando, Myriam, Camilo and Santiago have been very thoughtful and welcoming hosts. Looking through our Sth American book, Geoff`s bible on all things Sth American, we discovered that they have taken us to all the highlights of Bogota.
The first day we went by taxi to a place called Monserate, which is at the top of a mountain which overlooks Bogota, we went up by Funicular, which rose really quickly over 300 mtrs. At the top we suffered a bit of altitude sickness (lack of breath) as we then climbed up further to a lovey chapel at the top of the hill. We took lots of photos including one of a statue of Guadaloope on the next mountain. The chapel and what it meant to the people of Bogota was evident when you went into the Chapel, it was such a quiet sanctuary from the rest of the bustle of life. We then went into town and walked around the Presidencial Palace and the Parliament, the three churches, La Terceri , Veracruz and San Francisco. The Gold Musuem Museo del Oro was next, this was absolutely spectacular, with exhibits that were so very old and the manner in which they were exhibited was beautiful, with one room you went into that was dark and then the whole thing lit up to take you around the room, which had over 20 thousand exhibits in the one room. Whoever worked out how to exhibit this particular room was a genius, it was breathtaking. Lunch was next, a place that specialised in prawns (a gastonomic delight) Museo Nationcial was next and then to Candelaria, which is Bogota`s Colonial quarter which is old Bogota. This was special too and we were so fortunate to have local people to show us around these areas as this is their heritage and we probably wouldn`t have gone there if they hadn`t taken us, as we wouldn`t have known about it. This is also the place that Camilo works, he is a Chef and has just secured a job as a teacher of very disadvantaged people, teaching them to be Chefs so they can go out into the workforce with a valulable talent, which can enable them to get good jobs. The other people at this place have helped to renovate under the tutelage of tradesmen, which has been overseen by an architect. Its not quite finished yet, but so far the results must be rewarding for all those involved in this worthwhile project.
We then took one of the colourful buses to Myriam`s sisters place. Geoff has been fascinated with the colourful buses here, they all look so different to each other and to anything we have seen before. We spent a very pleasant hour with another very hosptiable family who made us very welcome. We were invited back to have Desayanu (breakfast) with the family as that was the only meal we had time for. We then walked to Park 93 and had crepes at a waffle and crepe restaurant. Our first very pleasant day full of adventure on our well plotted tour with our team leader Myriam ( She sets a mean pace, with Geoff & Hernando bringing up the rear, talking most of the time!!) We will catch up with the next few days later we off to do some shopping) .
Sunday, September 23, 2007
Day two, Michele stiff and sore from the tumble, lucky it was a flat footpath.
Another lovely day here, the official first day of spring, walked around in a short sleeve shirt.
Pretty easy day, went on the half day tour which was interesting. Being Sunday nothing much was crowded as the locals seem to get up and around later in the day.
Would you believe the first stop was the scene on the Michelebusterbelle of yesterday. Saw the main central square and the old presidential palace and several of the inner suburbs.
For Sally, a couple of Kiwis (men 40 -50) on the tour had walked the trail and found it tough particularlly the third day. Also one never went to the toilet for 5 days as he could not face them (seemed a tough enough bloke in other ways!)
This arvo we walked from the fish market to the Funicular which takes you up a small mountain (passed the zoo) to a statue of the VM (there must be one everywhere) had a chair lift ride as well. By the time we came down (3.30) the place was beginning to get busy (just accidently found the delete button!).
A really lovely start to our adventures, Santaigo is such a lovely city although a bit hazy as it is set between the Andes (snow covered to the west) and a coastal range to the east
An early start tomorrow for Lima and Bogota, so early dinner and to bed. Will be hard to beat last nights dinner and the quality of the wine but!
Geoff 6.00 local time Sunday
Another lovely day here, the official first day of spring, walked around in a short sleeve shirt.
Pretty easy day, went on the half day tour which was interesting. Being Sunday nothing much was crowded as the locals seem to get up and around later in the day.
Would you believe the first stop was the scene on the Michelebusterbelle of yesterday. Saw the main central square and the old presidential palace and several of the inner suburbs.
For Sally, a couple of Kiwis (men 40 -50) on the tour had walked the trail and found it tough particularlly the third day. Also one never went to the toilet for 5 days as he could not face them (seemed a tough enough bloke in other ways!)
This arvo we walked from the fish market to the Funicular which takes you up a small mountain (passed the zoo) to a statue of the VM (there must be one everywhere) had a chair lift ride as well. By the time we came down (3.30) the place was beginning to get busy (just accidently found the delete button!).
A really lovely start to our adventures, Santaigo is such a lovely city although a bit hazy as it is set between the Andes (snow covered to the west) and a coastal range to the east
An early start tomorrow for Lima and Bogota, so early dinner and to bed. Will be hard to beat last nights dinner and the quality of the wine but!
Geoff 6.00 local time Sunday
Saturday, September 22, 2007
Hola Amigoes
Three landings completed, 18 to go!!
The eagle landed at about 1.00pm Santaigo time (3 am Sunday in Brisbane). The flight was fairly uneventful if not tediuos with only a few minutes in Sydney and an hour or so in Auckland. Even so the departure from NZ was 8 hours after we left Brisbane, (Boy am I going to have fun with Spanish spell check, it shows every word as an error!).
Lan is definately not Qantas in terms of service, with the food fairly basic, but edible and the movies not flash, we saw the middle but not the beginning of Oceans 13 between Sydney and NZ and then missed the start again on the third leg. Got the gist though. Both managed to get a fair sleep so although we arrived a bit jaded not too jet lagged.
On arrival found the transer to the hotel (thanks Michael) and recieved updated Spanish lessons from the very nice driver. Un packed and went for a walk in the area around the hotel, a commercial and resturant area.
Decided to get adventourous and tried the metro and went to ¨down town¨, luckily we were helped by a couple of friendly locals in both spanish and in english.
Visited the Santa Lucia park and look out and decided that Saturday is ¨love¨ and ¨dog¨day in Santiago, young couples cuddling everywhere and dogs just lying around (not a leash in sight). Tried to suggest to Michele that the former might be contageous and that we did´nt have a vaccanation for it?
No buskers which surprised us, however Michele endevoured to fix that by havind a major fall walking alond the footpath. Not too good after it and may have damaged a pinkie. As I write this she is asleep upstairs with ice on the finger. May need xrays!!
Off to din dins in a mo.
Hasta Luego
G and M
Three landings completed, 18 to go!!
The eagle landed at about 1.00pm Santaigo time (3 am Sunday in Brisbane). The flight was fairly uneventful if not tediuos with only a few minutes in Sydney and an hour or so in Auckland. Even so the departure from NZ was 8 hours after we left Brisbane, (Boy am I going to have fun with Spanish spell check, it shows every word as an error!).
Lan is definately not Qantas in terms of service, with the food fairly basic, but edible and the movies not flash, we saw the middle but not the beginning of Oceans 13 between Sydney and NZ and then missed the start again on the third leg. Got the gist though. Both managed to get a fair sleep so although we arrived a bit jaded not too jet lagged.
On arrival found the transer to the hotel (thanks Michael) and recieved updated Spanish lessons from the very nice driver. Un packed and went for a walk in the area around the hotel, a commercial and resturant area.
Decided to get adventourous and tried the metro and went to ¨down town¨, luckily we were helped by a couple of friendly locals in both spanish and in english.
Visited the Santa Lucia park and look out and decided that Saturday is ¨love¨ and ¨dog¨day in Santiago, young couples cuddling everywhere and dogs just lying around (not a leash in sight). Tried to suggest to Michele that the former might be contageous and that we did´nt have a vaccanation for it?
No buskers which surprised us, however Michele endevoured to fix that by havind a major fall walking alond the footpath. Not too good after it and may have damaged a pinkie. As I write this she is asleep upstairs with ice on the finger. May need xrays!!
Off to din dins in a mo.
Hasta Luego
G and M
Sunday, September 16, 2007
Michele and Geoff are off overseas, this time to South America. We leave on September 22nd and arrive in Santiago where we will stay two nights. We will then fly to Colombia to visit with the Zarate family who we have got to know through Lesley's boys. Hernando, Myriam, and Camilo visited us last year. From there we will visit Ecuador and stay in Quito for 2 nights and at Sasha Lodge, (an eco resort) for 4 nights. After Ecuador we join a tour of Peru and Bolivia visiting the Inca sites and sights and Lake Titicaca. Then to Buenos Aires for 3 nights and on to Iguassu to see the falls (Geoff's long held ambition) and to Rio where we will stay right on Copacabana Beach (well in an adjoining hotel any way). Rio to Santiago and then to Easter Island for two nights before returning to Santiago. Home again on October 28th.
We will keep you posted.
Michele and Geoff
We will keep you posted.
Michele and Geoff
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